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3 years ago

"Bacon" sandwiches, Instagram models and joyful shoe shiners: it’s impossible to just walk for the sake of walking in the wealthy northern Tehran. Irony is everywhere.
Blog: ... See more

3 years ago

Online Cat & Mouse in Iran
I cursed and yelled. I asked existential questions. Why am I here? What is the point of all this? Then it dawned on me: millions of Iranians are going through the same ... See more

3 years ago

Sticker shock in Iran is like an infuriating prankster following you everywhere, waiting to jump you when least expected.

It happens even more often to the expats hopelessly stuck in 1979.

Read the ... See more

3 years ago

Here in Mashhad, I’m subject to the rulers of Iran. Their wish is forcing me to remember the analog world.
And for that, well, I’m thankful. ... See more

3 years ago

I don’t care that IranAir has old planes, broken toilets and no AC in the middle of the summer. The entertainment makes up for it all.

I’m on a rickety 25-year-old Airbus A330 going from ... See more

3 years ago

It’s a joy to be just a tourist in Iran. Outsiders aren't treated like treated as the irritating mobile cash machines who brave the streets of Rome and Paris and Barcelona. But to live in Iran, it ... See more

6 years ago

Sometimes it’s impossible to walk away from tenacious Iranian hospitality, especially when there’s tea from a charcoal-powered samovar and unforgettable abgoosht.

6 years ago

There's so much madness on Iran's roads, it's easy to become inured to the outrage. I photograph to remember and verify it was as insane as I thought it was.

6 years ago

In Iran, even strangers shower each other with pleasantries. But behind the wheel, Iranians are lawless and ruthless. I often ask about the reason. These are some of the opinions I’ve gotten.

6 years ago

Trying to get an Iranian driver’s license provides insight into why the country is a world leader in traffic fatalities. No one in Iran takes driver’s education seriously, not even the driving ... See more